Item 6 - Copy of letter to Haviland from Saloniki

Gives an account of crossing Mount Pindus in Greece and a visit to the monastries of Metara [Meteora]. Describes a tour of one of the monastries, used as a prison by Ali Pacha. Also notes their Turkish guide's propensity for wine and the open manner in which Turkish muslim's consume alcohol. Describes Salonica, especially its large Jewish population, and notes the poor situation of the resident Greeks. Notes the hostility shown by the Turkish population towards Christian travelers, but also is surprised by their accommodation, describing visits to mosques which they were allowed unhindered, including to a mosque, once a church, which houses the tomb of Saint Demetia. Describes the Roman remains in Salonica, of which there are few, and also discusses the trade carried out in the town, especially the existence of overland routes to Germany using horses and camels. Describes the Valley of the Peneus River, especially its agriculture, noting herds of cows and horses, wheat, barley and rye and also the presence of cotton and silk worms. Mentions the existence of the houses of the Vizier and his sons. Has met the Vizier Ali Pacha at Larissa who provided them with horses for travel all the way to Constantinople and for this reason will undertake the journey shortly. Discusses the character of Ali Pacha and his two sons and describes their relations with regard to their power. Briefly describes Larissa and Trikala and waxes lyrical about Mount Olympus. Gives a description of the journey towards Turkey and the Turkish towns. Describes the mosques and is also struck by the large cemeteries and comments on the large number of Turks who die from plague.